AAA Garden Services

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2011-08-22T19:46:00.006Z

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Before & After with England's Gardens

2010-05-05T15:08:00.000Z

Before: At this garden in Patcham, England's Gardens renewed a flower bed which needed some work. We planted some new plants freshly bought from the garden centre, weeded and cleared leaves from the bed, before adding some rich compost to the border. Now it looks as good as new...

After: ...And here are the results...

Patcham Garden Receives Lawncare and Pruning Treatment

2010-04-16T22:57:00.000Z

A beautiful 3-tiered garden in Patcham is being cared for now by England's Gardens. The lawn needed cutting and edging and some of the shrubs, such as Berberis and Common Privet have been cut back to shape.

It is really a very beautiful garden in need of general maintenance and up-keep. This week I will be pruning back some more of the shrubs nearer the end of the garden.

The garden has a delightful pond with a cascading stream descending down to the pond. I can imagine it gives the owners great joy and relaxation in the summer sun.

Tulips on display and a Lenten Rose on a bed banked by a retaining wall really bring some splendid colour to the garden.

Before & After with England's Gardens

2010-04-16T22:20:00.000Z

This weedy spot in a garden in Preston Park needed some tender care. England's Gardens weeded the area ready both for a small greenhouse and for new planting in the Summer.

Jury's Inn Hotel, Brighton

2010-04-16T22:11:00.000Z

England's Gardens get to work on a local job at Jury's Inn Hotel, near the Station in Brighton. This contract requires us to maintain, prune and weed flower beds around the Hotel. Now that Spring is truly here, the growing season is well and truly upon us and the weeds will grow thick and fast over the Summer.

St Anne's Wells Gardens, Hove

2010-04-06T22:38:00.000Z

How to Prune a Passion Flower

2010-04-06T15:56:00.001Z

An excellent video guide on how to prune Passiflora (Passion Flower). Spring is the best time to prune the Passion Flower, as it starts to generate new growth.

One website dedicated to the Passion Flower, www.passionflow.co.uk, has these tips on pruning...

'Leave the plant looking messy over winter & amp; prune only after growth has restarted. Even then always leave some long straggly bits. When pruning never cut hard to the main stems. Never prune late in the season.'

Stanmer Nursery, Stanmer Park

2010-04-06T14:57:00.002Z

Ready for planting...

Top Left: Dahlias ready for planting out for the summer. Top Right: A peacock butterfly rests on a Alcea plant. Middle Left: Stunning tulips going on sale for Spring. Middle Right: Striking Stipa tenuissimas are attractive in any garden. Bottom left: Dicentra spectabilis 'Bleeding Heart' are very delicate and charming. Bottom left: Lavender ready for planting.

Also, at Stanmer Park you can walk around the park and see, among cherry trees and some lovely plants, these spectacular Cedar of Lebanon trees. This is my personal favourite tree pictured above. Majestic. Stanmer Park also has a little cafe where you can get great food, coffee and tea. It is a lovely day out for individuals and is very family friendly. Highly recommended.

Highdown Gardens

2010-04-05T10:52:00.000Z

I recommend a trip to Highdown Gardens in West Sussex, near Goring by Sea. The tulips have yet to emerge but the Helleborus orientalis (Lenten Rose, pictured above) and anenomes are out in full colour, not forgetting the glorious Spring daffodils swaying in the breeze.

Highdown Gardens opened on April 4th and closes for the winter around October. If you live in the region, it is very much worth a visit. The anenomes (left) are particluarly striking at the moment and I thought the small path lined with them was charming.

Click here to visit the website of the gardens, ran and maintained by Worthing Borough Council.

Before & After with England's Gardens Part II

2010-04-04T20:27:00.001Z

Before: These evergreens needed cutting right back at the Preston Park garden, having not had some tender gardening care for quite a while. Billy, the dog, looks on as England's Gardens gets to work on getting the Brighton garden back up to scratch....

After: These shrubs are back to their best having been given some pruning treatment in a day's work, ready for some planting for some hot colour in summer.The Bay tree (Laurus nobilis) in particular has been taken down to give the garden some perspective again.

Below Right: Using an extended ladder, I was able to cut back rampant Wisteria siniensis that had not been pruned the year before, freeing the beautiful shuttered windows of this 1850s built Brighton house from the Wisteria, ready for it to blossom in May. Not for the faint of heart! Don't worry, even though I am not in the second picture, I am still safe, alive and in one piece.

Before & After with England's Gardens

2010-03-25T20:05:00.000Z

Before: This area of a large garden of a historic house in the Preston Park area of Brighton has been transformed in a matter of days. Hedera helix (Ivy) had been on the rampage for a long time in this section towards the entrance of the garden. England's Gardens set about digging and weeding the area, clearing bags of leaves and removing Ivy.

After: The area has been cleared and weeded. The Narcissus (Daffodils) which had sprouted up for Spring should now be a lot more visible when they bloom, now that the Ivy has been cleared. Also revealed were some lovely ferns amid the ground cover as well as the decorative brick and slate pathway and border hidden by the dead leaves and Ivy. Today we were joined by a feathered friend who was investigating the scene following the clearance, clearly eager to find some tasty worms in the fresh soil we had uncovered!

Tulips for Instant Colour...

2010-03-18T19:51:00.002Z

Try Tulipa 'Jan Reus' for instant hot colour in your garden...

According to Val Bourne of The Telegraph tulips should be planted after the end of October once temperatures fall. Her article continues however...

But if you missed your chance this year, there is another way to have tulips in the garden now: seek out ready-grown potfuls and sink them into the borders. They will do well (even in shade) and Beth Chatto has been using this system for years.

The most colourful tulips are the Triumphs - a group bred in Holland for the cut-flower trade. Excellent late-April varieties include the dark chrysanthemum crimson 'Jan Reus', the purple-veined white 'Shirley' and the beetroot-purple 'Negrita'.

Tulipa 'Shirley'

They come in a wide rainbow of colours, but a limited colour scheme probably works best in the garden. Add a few May-flowering tulips to follow on. Next year pot your own tulips between early November and late December. Place about nine tulip bulbs into a large pot and place in the sheltered lea of a wall - to prevent heavy rain from making the pots too wet. Protect from mice and squirrels.

Pam Tatam, of Hall Farm Nursery in Lincolnshire, also adds spring bedding to each potful so that wallflowers and forget-me-nots frame her tulips. As the bulbs fade, lift the whole pot. Feed the bulbs if you want to keep them - or start again.

The Telegraph's Top 10 Spring Flowering Shrubs

2010-03-18T18:19:00.002Z

Cercis chinensis 'Avondale' - Chinese Redbud

Courtesy of The Telegraph

Cercis chinensis 'Avondale’, a form of the Chinese redbud, makes a large shrub or small tree, with masses of purple-pink pea flowers on the bare shoots in late March and April. The leaves then unfurl; they are very big, heart-shaped, pale green in colour and turn yellow in autumn. This plant is hardy, happiest in full sun or partial shade, and likes a fertile, moist but well-drained soil.

Halesia carolina is one of the choicest of all spring shrubs (or small trees), having adorable, nodding, pure white snowdrop flowers in late spring, once the plant has a few years on the clock. These are ¾in long, and hang in clusters of three or five on short stalks. These flowers turn into 2in-long, pear-shaped fruit with four wings and a tail. When fully ripe, these are brown, chiming well with the leaves, which yellow in autumn. Halesias like a sheltered spot in sun or part shade in neutral or acid soil.

Chaenomeles x superba 'Jet Trail’ is an unusual ornamental quince with a dwarf spreading habit, so it can be used for ground cover, provided the soil is cleared of perennial weeds. The semi-double white flowers appear through March and April, before and after the leaves unfurl. Chaenomeles like a sunny spot, but are not particuularly fussy about soil pH or constitution, as long as there’s good drainage. It can be pruned in summer after flowering.

Exochorda x macrantha 'The Bride’ (pictured above) is another hardy shrub, with great garden presence, because the startlingly white flowers are quite large (1¼in across) and thickly carried in 4in-long racemes at the end of short sideshoots. The branches tend to weep, and I have seen it grown on a sloping bank near water. Immediately after flowering, remove flowered shoots and thin out the others. This shrub has the RHS Award of Garden Merit.

If you garden on an acid soil, Fothergilla major is almost a must, since it has very striking, scented, petal-less, creamy white flower heads, which are made up solely of stamens. These are carried in spring on a multi-stemmed, medium-sized shrub. The oval, 4in-long leaves turn scarlet and orange in autumn. Another AGM plant.

Stachyurus praecox, from Japan, is a large, spreading, deciduous shrub, with slender, pointed, oval leaves, which are preceded by long spikes or catkins of pale yellow, bell flowers. Leaves colour in autumn. Stachyurus praecox is hardy, although early flowers can be damaged by hard frosts. The shrub needs shelter from cold winds, so does well in a protected shrub border or woodland area, but can also be trained against a wall. It likes a moist, humus-rich neutral or acid soil, and partial shade, unless it can be kept well watered in summer. It, too, has been awarded the RHS AGM.

Acradenia frankliniae is an evergreen shrub from Tasmania, where it is called whitey wood. This also has opposite leaves, composed of three long, glossy, green leaflets, coarsely toothed on the margins. Small white flowers appear in late April and May in terminal clusters. This medium-sized shrub likes fertile, damp, but well-drained neutral or acid soil in partial shade, where it won’t be buffeted by winds. It will stand a few degrees of frost.

Ribes odoratum or buffalo currant is hardy, not fussy about soils or aspect, healthy and easy to grow. The clove-scented, five-petalled flowers are golden-yellow and occur in clusters; they appear in April and May. The leaves, similar to a gooseberry, turn dark red and purple in autumn. This shrub is a change from pink-flowering currants.

If looking for something different in the berberis line, Berberis valdiviana (pictured above), from Chile, makes a tall (6½ft-10ft) evergreen shrub. It does not spread sideways too much and the glossy green leaves set off the long (1½in), saffron golden racemes of flowers in spring. Although there are a few spines on the shoots (which are avoidable), the large leathery leaves are pretty well spineless. This plant is easy to grow, but difficult to propagate.

Abeliophyllum distichum is a Korean relation of the common golden-flowered forsythia, but less beefy. It also flowers a little earlier, especially if trained against a warm wall, which is where it thrives best. Before February is out, and before the oval, opposite leaves have appeared, the creamy white, four-petalled flowers, with their golden centres, will be scenting the air. (There is a pale-pink variation, Roseum Group.) The display does not last long, but is welcome for its timing. It prefers a well-drained but fertile spot in full sun. Prune flowered shoots after blooming and tie new ones against a wall or trellis.

Magnificent Magnolias

2010-03-17T22:24:00.002Z

The Magnolia season is upon us in the UK. Wakehurst Place in East Sussex is home to some magnificent magnolias, as seen in the picture above.

Courtesy of BBC Gardening, here are the basics on the resplendent Magnolia genus.

Common Name: Magnolia
Genus: Magnolia
Species: liliiflora
Cultivar: 'Nigra'
Skill Level: Experienced
Exposure: Full sun, Partial shade
Hardiness: Hardy
Soil type: Well-drained/light, Acidic
Height: 300cm
Spread: 240cm
Flowering period: April to June

Chinese Dogwood Tree [Cornus kousa]

2009-06-18T20:00:00.000Z

I saw this tree today at Nyman's Gardens, Handcross, Sussex and thought it was beautiful. H/T to University of Arkansas for information on this wonderful plant.

'The Chinese dogwood comes into bloom in mid-May and lasting until early June. It is a 20-foot tall, twiggy, round-headed tree that is small enough to be accommodated in even the most crowded garden. Its flowers appear three weeks after those of the native dogwood.

The blooms are pointed on the end instead of bobbed off like our native dogwood, giving the appearance of white four-pointed stars against the dense green background foliage. The individual petals -- actually modified leaves called bracts -- are usually 2- to 2 1/2 inches long and about one-third as wide. They begin as a beautiful light green and gradually change to bright white as the flowers open.

In the autumn, the Chinese dogwood produces round ping-pong size clusters of red fruit on drooping peduncles that add another dimension of beauty to the tree. Autumn color is usually excellent, in shades of red to scarlet, and persists for two to three weeks.

On old trees, the bark takes on a wonderful flaking characteristic which, while not as beautiful as some of the crape myrtle selections, is still very attractive. The Chinese dogwood was introduced into cultivation in 1907 by the Arnold Arboretum’s great plant collector, E. H. Wilson (1876-1930).

The best known selection of the Chinese dogwood is a cultivar called "Milky Way," which was introduced by Wayside Gardens when they were still located in Mentor, Ohio. Wayside’s nurserymen grew an assortment of seedlings from as many seed sources as possible and selected 15 trees that produced large bracts and had a precocious flowering habit. This block of trees became the source of scion wood when the tree was introduced in the late 1960's. Because 15 trees were selected instead of one, there will sometimes be variation between trees grown under the name "Milky Way."

The Chinese dogwood is easier to grow than our native dogwood, but it still does best when given a reasonably fertile soil and good drainage. While I have seen it used in the middle of parking lot islands in full sun, it is better sited where it gets some afternoon shade.

It should be watered during dry periods, but otherwise requires no special care. It is not as susceptible to the dogwood borer and, so far at least, has shown good resistance to both dogwood powdery mildew and dogwood anthracnose that have plagued our native trees.

Chinese dogwoods can sometimes be slow to flower. If grown from seed, it is not unusual for trees to take seven to 10 years to reach maturity and become old enough to bloom. Even budded trees, which in theory at least should always bloom, are shy to bloom their first few years. The best way to set good flowering is to avoid over-fertilizing while keeping the plant well watered during the early part of the growing season. Then, after mid July cut back on watering and allow the plant to experience the joys of summer. This more stressful summer experience usually promotes good flower bud set in the autumn.'

Everlasting Wallflower: The Butterfly's Favourite

2009-05-30T10:48:00.002Z

People say that Buddleja is the best plant for getting wildlife and butterflies into your garden. I recently took a trip over to my parents house and they showed me the Everlasting Wallflower, latin name, Vanessa cardui.

Tens of painted lady butterflies are now swarming into my parents garden, because they absolutely adore this plant. If you like butterflies in your garden, get it!

Pruning Clematis

2009-04-07T22:57:00.002Z

Clematis 'Josephine'

Great article from Garden Forum on pruning Clematis.

Pruning is one garden job that confuses many gardeners. And pruning clematis/how to prune clematis is certainly one area that has heads scratching all over the world.

You don't have to prune clematis. Pruning can be restricted to: 1) the plants are out-growing their allotted space; 2) the flowers are produced too high up to enjoy.

Pruning in the latter case can even be avoided by retraining and tying shoots lower down on the support - say just above ground level. These shoots produce their flowers much lower down.

Training shoots horizontally not only keeps the flowers within eye level, but provides better coverage of the support, and the reduced flow of sap encourages even more flowers.

Clematis can be divided into three groups when it comes to the subject of pruning, depending on when they flower.

Group 1

Early-flowering species clematis (such as Clematis montana, C. macropetala and C. alpina),

These plants flower on growth produced the previous year and, if needed, are just given a light pruning to remove spent flowers immediately after flowering.

Old, woody plants can be pruned very hard - down to a couple of feet if necessary, preferably to just above some strong, healthy growth - after flowering to remove lots of the old, non-flowering growth. Plants may take a year or so to fully recover and start flowering properly again. Old plants may not recover.

Group 2

Large-flowered hybrids that start flowering in May/June.

These cultivars can be cut back fairly hard - say to between 90cm to 1.2m (3-4ft) high - to just above a fat pair of buds/single bud; the former is better.

Start pruning at the top of the plant and work your way down.

Pruning is carried out at the end of February/early March.

Group 3

These can be cut back very hard - say to 23-45cm (9-18in) high - again just above a pair of buds/single bud - removing nearly all of the previous year's growth.

Start pruning at the bottom of the plant.

Pruning is carried out at the end of February/early March.

Even though some years can encourage a lot of early growth on clematis, don't be tempted to prune Group 2 and Group 3 cultivars any earlier, as frosts can still kill this early growth leaving none to grow away on hard-pruned plants.

If you want to retain some tall growth on plants to retain cover of the supporting structure, you could cut down just half the shoots as described above. This will give slightly earlier but higher flowers on the un-pruned growth. The pruned shoots will flower a little later and produce flowers lower down the plant. This gives a better and slightly longer display.

Aftercare

As with any plants, pruning should be followed by a good feed with a granular fertiliser. Rose food is excellent for this.

Red Flowering Current

2009-04-07T22:41:00.003Z

I've seen this shrub around Brighton and it has really grown on me. Not literally, of course. It is called Ribes sanguineum, known as Red Flowering Current. Looks great at this time of year and sweet fragrance. Here is the Wikipedia info...

'It is a deciduous shrub growing to 4m tall. The bark is dark brownish-grey with prominent paler brown lenticels. The leaves are 2-7 cm long and broad, palmately lobed with five lobes; when young in spring, they have a strong resinous scent. The flowers are produced in early spring at the same time as the leaves emerge, on racemes 3-7 cm long of 5-30 flowers; each flower is 5-10 mm diameter, with five red or pink petals. The fruit is dark purple oval berry 1 cm long, edible but with an insipid taste.

It is a very popular garden shrub, grown for its brightly colored and scented flowers in early spring. Numerous cultivars have been selected with flowers ranging from white to dark red. It was introduced into cultivation by David Douglas.

Named cultivars include:

* 'King Edward VII', with red flowers
* 'Pulborough Scarlet', also with red flowers
* 'White Icicle', with white flowers'

Gardens that Rock!

2009-03-14T12:19:00.002Z

Rock garden with charming water pool feature.

Alpine cool.

Great use of railway sleepers and slate.

The Gardening Che Guevaras!

2009-03-14T00:07:00.004Z

Absolutely brilliant article from Inhabitat website. Click here for the full story. There is something vaguely Franciscan about this idea and is the kind of thing that would have me hatching all kinds of pipe dreams of getting a band of brothers together to go around doing gardening works of mercy for Brighton. It's the kind of action that says, "We are going to go around doing good under the cover of darkness and there's nothing you or the council can do about it!"

Regardless of whether you are an urban, suburban, or rural dweller, there is inevitably a patch of neglected turf in your neighborhood that might need a bit of TLC and greening. If you see hidden gardening potential between sidewalk cracks when others see decay and abandon, well then, you might be a budding guerrilla gardener and not even know it! The guerrila gardening phenomenon is currently sweeping the globe as folks are finding innovative ways to come together for the optimization of neglected land and paved surface area. It’s a turf war for some, or a poetic gesture for others, but either way, citizens are rolling up there sleeves to create gardens in the most unlikely spaces and places.

The term ‘guerrilla gardening‘ might scare off some, but the practice has a long history of both radical and community-building tactics. Liz Christy and the Green Guerrillas transformed an abandoned lot in NYC’s Bowery during the 1970’s and as the BBC recently reported, guerrilla gardeners are ’sowing the seeds of resistance’ in South London. Many ‘resistance gardeners’ consider themselves to be vandals of sorts but with plants or seeds as weapons, often operating covertly at night in empty lots or on public property that otherwise remains unkept or barren.

An organized, team-driven planting project aka a ‘cell mission’ might occur along a roadside median or stretch of row houses. A simple spoon with compost might also do the trick for the lone individual who wants to create an island of green near a naked telephone pole or lamp post. Seed bombs might also be tossed over chainlink fences, ala a serious eco-recipe that Christy and company originally concocted.

The Guerilla Gardening website has a friendly though subversive sort of tone, as it has gone from tracking the activities of “illicit cultivation around London” to being a “growing arsenal for anyone who is interested in waging war against the neglect of public space.” It’s troop digs are warm and inviting and ultimately about reclamation, beautification, and even growing food in public spaces (a political act in and of itself as we re-educate ourselves about viable land use). The lighter side of the guerilla gardening campaign would probably be community gardens or grassroots gardening, which also brings folks together (during daylight hours) for neighborhood improvement and local food security. Whether as collective green graffiti or as an attempt to reclaim the neighborhood and make improvements for all, guerrilla gardening is a form of eco-activism that is catching on despite its controversial methods.

Slate of the Art Gardening

2009-03-13T22:58:00.006Z

Somebody would like me to help her lay down some slate-chippings in her front garden and it has to be said that they do make for an ideal, low maintenance garden, which you can then plant up with potted plants and have grasses or other plants sprouting up from the chippings, creating a lovely effect. Stipa tenuissima and blue grasses in particular go well with it. I think this image actually makes for a nice, visually striking garden. Lavender and Rosemary would go well with this effect too. So much potential!

This is a nice effect with Hostas, a Phoenix Palm, Juniper communis, Crocosmia and ferns. The constrast of the greens and the plum chippings is really pretty. Slates come in plum, green, grey, blue, black but I think the grey, green, plum look is the nicest type.

25 Best Spring Plants

2009-03-13T17:58:00.007Z

Pulmonaria 'Diana Clare'

The Telegraph have compiled a list of the 25 best Spring plants in a top 100 for all seasons. Here it is:

1 Pulmonaria 'Diana Clare'
Long, silvered leaves with an apple-green cast flatter deep violet flowers, making this pulmonaria perhaps the best of all. Part shade (30cm/2ft).

2 Epimedium x versicolor 'Sulphureum'
Graceful wiry stems with two-tone yellow flowers above heart-shaped, shiny green leaves. A toughie. Part shade (30cm/2ft).

3 Erysimum 'Bowles' Mauve'

In flower from spring until late autumn, this bushy wallflower produces sprays of purple flowers above grey-green foliage. Sun and good drainage (75cm/2.5ft).

4 Dryopteris wallichiana

Black bristly hairs contrast against bright green fronds when this handsome upright fern unfurls its croziers in late April. Good soil, shade (1.2 m/4ft).

5 Scilla siberica 'Spring Beauty'
Easy, deep blue, diminutive bulb to drift through paler spring bulbs, whether miniature narcissi or erythroniums. Semi-shade (15cm/6in).

6 Cyclamen coum

Jaunty swept-back flower with a magenta nose. Grow in full sun or under trees and allow to self-seed. Good drainage (10cm/4in).

7 Clematis macropetala
Let it scramble over a wall and, given time, it produces ragged, soft-petalled flowers with cool green middles. Good drainage (3m/10ft).

8 Viburnum x burkwoodii 'Park Farm Hybrid'
Early spicy, sweet fragrance as deep pink buds open to apple-white flowers that show up well against the shiny green leaves. Easy (3m/10ft).

9 Crocus chrysanthus 'Blue Pearl'

For early spring sparkle, this delicate silver-blue crocus shimmers in spring sunshine and complements yellows, oranges and purples. Full sun (7cm/3in).

10 Narcissus 'Jetfire'
This vivid yellow-petalled cyclamineus hybrid develops a bright orange trumpet, so it makes a great impact. Easy anywhere (24cm/9in).

11 Narcissus 'Ice Wings'
White narcissi flower later than yellows and are often scented. This double-headed, ivory-white triandrus hybrid is superb with blue muscari. Easy (30cm/1ft).

12 Crocus vernus 'Pickwick'
Capable of pushing through the lawn, this large-flowered crocus has lilac petals finely feathered in purple. Full sun (12cm/5in).

13 Daphne odora 'Aureomarginata'

Easy daphne with lily-scented pink flowers and yellow-rimmed green leaves. Wide rather than tall. Warm shelter (2m/7ft).

14 Brunnera macrophylla 'Jack Frost'
Heart-shaped silvered leaves dramatically edged and veined in green, finished off with dainty blue flowers. Good soil, part shade (50cm/20in).

15 Tulipa 'Spring Green'

This colour-washed green and white tulip softens deep shade and mixes brilliantly with green foliage. Shade (30cm/12in).

16 Erythronium 'Pagoda'
Pallid, yellow Tiffany lamps and mottled foliage make this a woodland essential. Divide after flowering to encourage more. Leaf-litter, humus-rich soil (50cm/20in).

17 Viola cornuta 'Alba'
A cushion of watercress-green foliage topped by wispy pansy flowers from May. Superb under roses. Shade (22cm/9in).

18 Anemone nemorosa 'Vestal'
This pristine white anemone has a neat, double centre and long-lasting flowers that spread. Woodland shade (15cm/6in).

19 Dicentra 'Bacchanal'

Delicate, apple-green ferny foliage topped by claret-red bleeding hearts on long stems. More persistent than many. Part shade (30cm/1ft).

20 Euphorbia polychroma
A mound of acid yellow flowers throughout spring. Brightens up a dark corner or shows off vibrant tulips. Easy anywhere (38cm/15in).

21 Magnolia x loebneri 'Leonard Messel'

The slender, rose-pink petals splay outwards to form a star. Frost resistant, but site away from morning sun. Moist soil (5m/16ft).

22 Polystichum setiferum 'Grandiceps'
These elaborate polystichums look almost mossy in spring and this form has upright crested fronds. Shade but not too dry (38cm/15in).

23 Euphorbia griffithii 'Dixter'

Asparagus-like spears develop into warm orange heads, even in deep shade, and the stems and leaf veins share the same tone. Good soil (90cm/3ft).

24 Vinca difformis
Wide-eyed, white periwinkle flowers with a hint of steel-blue, for early ground cover in an awkward spot. Accommodating (60cm/2ft).

25 Muscari armeniacum 'Valerie Finnis'
A baby-blue grape hyacinth with cool green overtones. Densely packed flowers on short stalks. Easy anywhere (20cm/8in).

Laying New Turf

2009-03-04T14:33:00.004Z

Courtesy of Gardening Data, click here for Website.

Using turf is the quickest way to get a lawn, but it needs careful preparation and care while it settles down. In southern UK, turves are best laid in late winter/early spring when the ground has not dried out and the growing season is approaching. They can be laid later in spring through to late summer but they will need more attention to ensure that they do not dry out. Laying them in late autumn and early winter is best avoided as the grass will be dormant and the turves can become waterlogged by winter rain. In more northern areas, the best times are early spring to mid summer.

Turves should ideally be laid within 24 hours of delivery, any delay over 48 hours increases the risk of the grass turning yellow or the turf drying out before being laid - 3 days should be considered the absolute maximum in ideal conditions (not too dry, hot or sunny). Don't arrange for the turves to be delivered until the site is completely prepared and you are ready to lay them.

Types of turf

Turf is usually supplied in rolled up length, 3 foot by 1 foot by 1.5 to 2 inches, they can be heavy to handle especially during wet weather. Meadow grass turf, is what it says, turf cut from an ordinary meadow. It is the cheapest type to purchase but will contain mixed grass types and weeds. It is quite hard wearing so is suitable if children or pets are going to use it. Seeded turf is a much better quality, it comprises a known type of grass suitable for lawns, it should not contain any weeds. Try to buy turves from sources using personal recommendations or after inspecting them - look for moist soil and a good colour of the soil and grass. You will only have a good quality lawn if you use good quality turves.

Planning the lawn

Before you start laying turf, give some thought as to what you want, as the lawn will be with you for years to come. Do you want a square lawn or a shaped one? Do you want flower beds in the lawn? Sometimes it is worth putting down a full lawn and cutting flower beds into it later when you have lived with it for a year or two.

A lawn need not be flat but you'll probably want to avoid very steep slopes. If you need to flatten an area, remember not to mix top soil and sub soil. Although it may seem a lot more work, the proper way is to remove the top soil from all the area to be levelled, then flatten the surface by redistributing the sub soil, and then replace the top soil over the whole area. Try to build up as much ground as you level down, this will mean that you won't have much soil to dispose of. If the ground is levelled up by more that about a foot (30 cm), leave it to settle for a year before laying turf.

Preparing the site

The lawn area needs to be well drained. If the area suffers from water retention, it may be necessary to lay a soak away or drainage pipes. If a lawn is to be laid around a newly built house, you can expect the builders to have buried some building waste and also to have mixed top and soil soils. If there is any builders sand left, do not dig it in - you need 'sharp sand' to condition soil not 'builders sand'. Start by removing all large stones, blocks and any obviously non-organic rubbish from the surface.

If you are replacing an existing lawn, dig off the existing grass to about two inches. A lawn grows best on well drained medium loam, if your soil is like this, your preparation can be minimal, but if the soil is clay or sandy, you'll need to do more work. With heavy clay soils, you should add sharp sand, well decomposed manure, garden compost or rotted leaves. This will improve drainage under the lawn.

With sandy soils, you should add well decomposed manure or rotted leaves. This will improve moisture retention under the lawn. The top soil needs to be prepared to give a fine, workable soil to a depth of 4 to 5 inches (10 to 12 cm) - if you are adding organic material, you should aim for a minimum depth of 6 inches (15 cm). If the area of the lawn is fairly small, it can be prepared by hand using a spade. For larger areas it is worth using a rotavator - borrowing or hiring one if necessary.

When starting to prepare the soil, it needs to be not too dry and not too wet. Start by digging or rotavating the whole area to the required depth, breaking down any large clumps of soil and remove any stones or rubbish that you see. When digging, work backwards so you don't tread down the soil you've just broken up.

Having turned over the whole area, add half of anything you need to dig in, and dig over or rotavate the whole area again. Add the other material to be dug in, and again go over the whole area. Rake over the area to level it (again removing any stones/rubbish which appears). Tread down the entire area - starting are one corner, walk slowly across the area placing one foot in front of the other, when you reach the other end, turn around and repeat until the whole area has been trod down (if the area is large, get help from your family and friends - I've not heard of a 'lawn walking party' but there's no reason not to have one!). The first time you do this, you'll probably find some humps and dips, remove these by giving the surface a light racking and repeat the treading down.

When you are happy that you have a flat surface, it is time to get the turves delivered, think about where to stack them as you only want to move them once yet have them handy for when you lay them. If the weather is very hot, dry or sunny, try to find a place which is shaded but not too far from the new lawn. Also decide where you are going to start laying the turves, if one side is against a wall or path, start there. If a corner of the area is formed by walls or paths, start in that corner. It's better if the last turves are laid along 'flexible' edges rather than fixed edges such as walls or paths.

Laying the lawn

When the turves have arrived and you are ready to lay them, give the whole area a dressing of general purpose fertiliser (such as one handful per square yard of Growmore), and rack it in to the top surface. Use a garden line to mark out a straight edge to lay your first row of turves, don't rely on the straight edge of a wall or path - the chances are it won't be straight.

Do not walk or run a wheelbarrow directly on newly laid turves, use planks on top of the turves to run the wheelbarrow, walk and kneel on (they will also have the effect of firming down the turves). Lay the first turf along the line and upto the start point of the first row. Continue to lay the turves along the line, end to end. Align each new one to the line and butt it upto the end of the previous one until the first row is complete, don't trim off the end to it's required length until the whole lawn has been laid. If it looks as if the required end edge will mean that the last piece of turf will be very small (less than 18 inches (45 cm)), use two large cut pieces for the last two turves rather than a full turf plus a small one.

If you notice any humps or dips in the turves as you lay them, remove or add soil as appropriate. Start the second row by cutting a turf to half length and lay one half against the first turf of the first row. Butt it up against the start line and also the first row. This will give staggered turf joints and give a better lawn. Lay the rest of the second row using full turves, butt each turf firmly up against both adjacent turves. Adjust the two turves in the same manner as used on the first row to ensure that the last turf is not too small. As you go along, fill in any gaps between turves with a mixture of soil and sharp sand. Repeat for the remaining rows, starting off each alternatively using full or half turves.

When you come to the second from last row, check the required width. If it is less than two turf widths, you will need to trim one row of turves lengthways. Cut and lay these trimmed turves along the second to last row and then use full width turves for the final row.

When all the turves have been laid, pass a garden roller over it, once long the turves and once at right-angles. You may need to trim some of the edges:

* If you need a straight edge, run a string line along the edge and use a half-moon edging tool to cut the turves as necessary.
* If you need curved edges, a hose-pipe laid on the turves can be used to form any curve required. Again you can use a half-moon edging tool to cut turf or you could use a sharp knife.

After care

If the turves are laid in hot weather, they will need to be watered - preferably using a sprinkler to give a gentle watering. For the first season, watering should be carried out during hot, dry periods. Any problems should be visible by the grass losing its colour. Keep playing children and pets off the lawn for the first season, turves are transplanted plants and need time to recover their full strength. Newly laid turves should not be mown until it starts to grow, and even then, the mowers should be set high for the first couple of cuts, and then reduced over the following three or four cuts.

Bark Chippings

2007-08-10T08:43:00.002Z

I have just completed a mulching project for a family living in Westdene. Together we decided to mulch the sides of the garden to create a distinctive border on either side. It does look an improvement, but in total we used 24 bags of 125L bark chippings! Well, it was heavy work I can tell you and my joints are aching today, but the family are pleased with it. A good thing about it is the weed membrane and chippings cover any stones or sharp objects which children might find should they wander over to the borders, so it is decorative and safer for children. I hope to post a picture of the end result in a day or two. Don't these Ericas (Heather) look lovely.

Hampton Court

2007-08-07T23:44:00.000Z

Well, here is a picture of me standing beside our silver gilt award design for City College Brighton and Hove. It certainly was a fun day going to Hampton Court and it was the first time I had ever been to a design show. Hopefully I will go again next year if I can make it. Well done again to City College for winning this prestigious award. I believe the college are enrolling during the summer for the NVQ and OCN Horticulture and Garden Design courses and I thoroughly recommend them. If you are interested check out www.ccb.ac.uk

Glad All Over?

2007-07-31T15:34:00.000Z

This is 1980s pop sensation The Smiths, with lead singer and all round musical genius Morrissey holding his beloved gladioli. Now rock history has never suggested Morrissey took an NVQ at a horticulture college but he clearly had some favourite plants. They're in the shops now and have been flowering in gardens since mid July. Avid pop fans will recall the young Stephen Morrissey singing This Charming Man on Top of the Pops with these striking flowers swirling around his body. Courtesy of the BBC, here are the facts.

Common Name: Gladiolus
Genus: Gladiolus
Skill Level: Experienced
Exposure: Full sun
Hardiness: Half Hardy
Soil type: Well-drained/light, Clay/heavy, Acidic, Chalky/alkaline
Height: 110cm
Spread: 30cm
Flowering period:

July to August

Botanic Gardens in Dublin

2007-07-23T14:23:00.000Z

Well, I have just come back from Dublin with a friend and though I forgot to take my camera I got this image of the Botanic Gardens. The glass houses are impressive too as is the Rose Garden and the Japanese rockery. Surprisingly, perhaps, it was free entry which was refreshing and the grounds are big enough to walk around for a good hour or two. A truly lovely day out. If you're ever in Dublin check it out. And its true, the Guinness is better there.

RHS Tatton Park 2007

2007-07-18T08:45:00.002Z

Yes, the summer is in full swing and we've experienced (on TV, most of us) the joys, highs and lows of the RHS Flower Shows and gardens of extraordinary designers. Chelsea was great and Hampton Court was superb. But is it all over? No! For there is another RHS show at Tatton Park on 18-22nd July. Maybe the reason I hadn't heard of it is because it is in the North, so we don't get to see much of it on TV. Maybe I'm just new to the gardening scene and am ignorant. Still the BBC is covering it on Thursday July 21st and Friday July 22nd on BBC2 and I expect it will be very good indeed. How exciting!

Olive Tree and Lavender

2007-07-12T17:28:00.001Z

Well, I was wandering around Brighton today and came across this delightful front garden. Against the brilliant white of the house a clever designer has planted a vintage wooden container with bulging lavender springing from within, supporting the base of a beautiful olive tree. The floor is white slate and pebbles with flecks of black and grey sprinkled around. I thought it was so nice I would put it on the blog. Hope you like it too.

NGS Gardens Open for Charity

2007-07-12T14:27:00.002Z

The National Gardens Scheme (NGS) have been involved in a recent series, still running I believe on the process by which members of the public are allowed into their excellent 'Yellow Book'. The Yellow Book contains over a hundred gardens nationwide which are deemed good enough to be advertised in the prestigious guide. The Garden House, linked to this blog, is just one such garden. The book is available on amazon and in all good book retailers. I know Sussex Stationers has a copy too. Even more useful, if you are only interested in gardens local to your area is the Yellow Book for Sussex, cheaper at just 50p. You'll discover there are so many beautiful gardens to see for free in Brighton and the surrounding area that you'll give up on all the grand, well known ones. Well, its possible. Click the link below for NGS Gardens for Charity.

http://www.ngs.org.uk

BBC Gardening on How to Grow Strawberries

2007-07-12T14:19:00.001Z

Good link on BBC Gardenings latest offering, giving us grewat tips on how to grow strawberries in your garden. How delightful! See the link below:

www.bbc.co.uk/gardening

Before and After with England's Gardens

2007-07-11T20:35:00.001Z

These are before and after shots of a garden I maintained today. The Fatsia japonica and beautiful hydranga were under attack from the deadly (not really) Dead Nettle weed, which, as a matter of fact, smells rather pungent and bad when you uproot it, or even get too close to it. The top picture shows how happy Fatsia and Hydrangea are now that they have room to breathe. The family for whom I maintained the garden are hoping to plant Thyme and other herbs in the area I have cleared. I wish them good luck in this endeavour.

Gardens Illustrated

2007-07-10T07:33:00.001Z

Browsing Garden Tales, an interesting website by a Dublin gardening enthusiast, I noticed his love for Gardens Illustrated. I managed to pick up a copy for a pound at Hampton Court. It's a great BBC magazine with stunning pictures of plants and gardens, some of which will take your breath away. This month has some beautiful pictures of Great Dixter. It's quite pricey at £3.85, but if you're going to buy one gardening magazine a month, its a notch up from Gardener's World.

Ventnor Botanic Gardens, Isle of Wight

2007-07-09T23:19:00.000Z

Located on the southern tip of the Isle of Wight the Botanic Garden has exotic plants, trees, flowers and shrubs from around the world displayed in a series of temperate and sub-tropical gardens. It has recently been renovated and developed and is a wonderful and inspiring garden to visit.

On Saturday 28th July, we will take the train from Brighton, and pick up the ferry across the water, and then taxi to Ventnor. Irene Fletcher, the education officer, will guide us round the gardens. She is an engaging and knowledgeable host and the gardens are stunning.

There will be free time to wander along the marvellous cliff walk to Ventnor where we will meet at the Spyglass Inn for supper.

The cost of £70 includes all travel (trains, ferry and taxi), guided tour round the gardens and the pub supper.

Leaving Brighton 8.30 am Return 10.00 pm. For more information visit email contact@gardenhousebrighton.co.uk

Verbena bonariensis

2007-07-09T17:42:00.000Z

This is an image I took at Hampton Court, not part of the Show but an interesting plant nonetheless. Verbena bonariensis was one of the first identifications our class had at college on the horticulture course and very nice it is too. It grows abundantly but is subtle and distinguished. According to BBC, "this is a short-lived perennial, and because it is borderline hardy, plants may be damaged by winter frosts. This may be avoided by leaving the dead stalks until spring, when new growth is evident, before cutting them back. A protective mulch should be added around them in the autumn with leaf mould or compost. They do, however, self-seed liberally and resulting seedlings are stronger and more drought-tolerant than those that are transplanted. This is a superb butterfly plant, rivalling even buddleja. The Royal Horticultural Society have given it the Award of Garden Merit." It is indeed a very nice plant.

Common Name: Verbena
Genus: Verbena
Species: bonariensis
Skill Level: Beginner
Exposure: Full sun
Hardiness: Half Hardy
Soil type: Well-drained/light, Moist
Height: 150cm
Spread: 45cm
Time to plant seeds: March to April
Flowering period:

August to October

Coleus Collage

2007-07-07T15:23:00.000Z

The Hampton Court Display also had a paisley pattern of coleus arranged amid a mat floor of helxine (Mind Your Own Business). This image reflects the variety at the show and just how beautiful these foliage plants can be. They are plantable in our gardens during the summer but would have to be brought inside for our winter as they would not survive our frost or climate. They're available from all decent garden centres at this time of year as well and not too pricey.

Mind Your Own Business!

2007-07-07T09:13:00.000Z

It was an honour to be able to tell members of the public at Hampton Court about the plants on display at the House of Plants plot at Hampton Court. Interestingly, however, the great British public were fascinated not so much by the exotic plants from all over the World, but that hardy UK growing plant, Soleirolia soleirolii, the common name of which is, 'Mind Your Own Business.' According to the BBC here are the main details of the plant species:

Attractive and maintenance-free alternative to grass as ground cover in moist, shady areas. It will tolerate sun or shade. Frost hardy, its leaves are killed by winter frost, but it will recover to grow vigorously in spring. The masses of tiny leaves clothe slender spreading stems that root as they run, forming a dense deep-pile carpet. As it covers the ground it will run over rocks, fallen logs, and so on, clinging to their shape so the features of the landscape are picked out. Quick to establish, it survives periodic dry spells and recovers quickly afterwards. It is a superb substitute for moss in a Japanese garden or shady courtyard. Propagate by division from spring to mid-summer.

A great many of the members of the public loved it, its feel and mat-forming growth. However, many people said it is incredibly invasive and will take over a whole lawn and then the whole garden, so be warned. Also, a wonderful plant for being generally offensive with, as when your annoying neighbour asks what the interesting ground cover in the front is, you can tell him to 'Mind Your Own Business'.

House of Plants

2007-07-07T08:55:00.002Z

The grand majority of the exotic plants used in the Hampton Court Show were provided by House of Plants. Paul, a former City College student, who set up his own indoor plants business in Balcombe, nr Lewes, provided an amazing selection of tropical plants for the display and hopefully will have drummed up plenty of business with the array on show. Check out the company's website at www.houseofplants.co.uk. He has a great selection.

Guzmania Mania!

2007-07-07T08:51:00.001Z

One of the most stunning flowers we had at Hampton Court. Vibrant orange/red with yellow tips on a spike that can reach up to three foot in hight. Guzmania is a glorious cenrtepiece that will outlast any bunch of flowers. They attracted alot of interest at the show and are available for delivery from House of Plants, providing house plants and conservatory plants nationwide.

Site: Bright indirect light.
Temp: Average warmth after flowering and hates cold or dry air, keep the humidity up.
Water: After flowering keep the well at the centre of the plant topped up over the growing season. In winter keep on the dry side and do not water into the 'well'. Keep humidity up by misting.
Feeding: A very weak liquid feed every month or so over the growing season.Tip: A tip to get it to reflower is to let the water dry in the centre of the plant then place it in a plastic bag with a ripe apple for a week or so. The apple gives off ethylene gas which stimulates flowering (This works for other plants as well) .

City College Wins Silver Gilt at Hampton Court

2007-07-05T01:27:00.000Z

From RHS Website

City College have won the Silver Gilt award at Hampton Court Flower Show. The tropical garden display, with plants provided by House of Plants is an exciting and delightful presentation of a relaxing garden of tropical plants.

This tropical garden has an Eastern feel and is inspired by the designers' travels, as well as TV horticulturist Chris Collins who gave a talk on exotics to students at City College of Brighton & Hove. The garden has a bamboo fence on three sides and other Eastern influences such as Indian stone urns, an Indian temple room and a Buddha's head statue, to create an air of contemplation and meditation. Antique stepping stones lead through the lush lawn to the temple room which is draped with rich fabrics and cushions.

The rear and sides of the garden are densely planted to display a wide variety of unusual, beautiful tropical plants from around the world. The temple room has plants climbing up it and trailing down from its roof. Innovative Paisley pattern beds of solenostemon (coleus) set in a lawn of lush soleirolia add vibrant colour at the front of the garden. Specimen plants include a Ficus microcarpa. The planting includes new varieties of solenostemon and the Solanum quitoense. All hard-landscaping materials are natural, recycled or sourced locally.

Both Beth and Julia are making their debut at this year's show while they continue studying horticulture at City College of Brighton & Hove. The college itself has an impressive track record at the Hampton Court Palace Flower Show winning several RHS medals.

Medillina magnifica at Hampton Court Flower Show

2007-06-30T18:45:00.000Z

Hampton Court Flower Show is under way and City College are entering a Tropical Garden display. This is the stand out plant of many of them. I will post images of others as well. This is called Medillina magnifica. These will be in hanging baskets hanging from a beautiful pergola in the design. The floor will be covered in Helxine (Mind Your Own Business) and will also be surrounded by a paisley pattern of Tradescantia and Coleus. Well, hopefully it will be on TV so hope you catch it. The college are certainly going for gold!

Ornamental Pears

2007-06-29T23:40:00.000Z

What a great idea! This Brighton garden shows how fruit trees don't just belong in orchards! This is a front garden in Brighton and I love the way these ornamental pears have been grown up railings in the garden, creating a delightful, modest, but delicate and ornate effect for the onlooker. And, I guess they can eat the pears too!

Hosta Design at Pluscarden Abbey

2007-06-29T23:29:00.000Z

On a recent trip to Pluscarden Abbey in Elgin, Scotland, I took this picture of a wonderful arrangement of Hostas. I love this plant. Apparently, slugs absolutely love them, but if you can beat the slugs, or don't have a problem with them, this is a stunning plant for any border. Love it! They're so fresh.

Exciting Parish Garden Project

2007-06-04T07:20:00.001Z

I've been helping a Brighton priest in his garden recently and this is the latest installment in an ongoing renovation of the parish garden. We bought some green slate chippings and made a wood border creating a nice clash of angles in the garden. We hope to create a very lush green garden and maybe install a little water feature and some lighting. It's been a great way to get work experience on a proper project and really rewarding to see it developing so well.

Laburnum Loveliness

2007-06-03T08:02:00.001Z

Laburnums, out in full force at this time of year can creat a quite stunning look. I found this image on the BBC website and what an amazing archway of laburnums this is. I've never seen anything quite like it. The picture is taken at Bodnant Garden. Bodnant Garden is one of the most beautiful gardens in the UK, spanning some 80 acres and is situated above the River Conwy on ground sloping towards the west and looking across the valley towards the Snowdonia range.

Peony Club

2007-06-03T07:21:00.001Z

I took a photo of this Peony (Paonia), in full bloom at this time of year in one of the Brighton gardens I had been passing recently. I love this plant.

And another one...

2007-05-29T09:44:00.001Z

I love the clever landscaping that's going on here. The small green shrubs at the bottom of the picture are Hebe 'White Diamond', a favourite of mine, having seen them at first hand at Wakehurst on a college field trip. Behind the cordalyne you can see a border of purple slate and the king of grasses, Miscanthus sinensis standing tall with its lush green and flicks of yellow. Let's face it - it's another classic Brighton garden. Hats off to the designer!

Nice Garden!

2007-05-29T09:38:00.001Z

I passed by this front garden in Brighton and just had to snap it. It's not often that you come across a front garden that just catches your eye and makes you want to really look at what's going on. I love the use of large pebbles and slate, especially the mixture of greys and whites along with the greens of the variegated Euonymous and use of nice grasses. Thumbs up to whoever designed this one too. I think its a cracking Brighton garden!

Exclusive Pictures of CFS from Mike Donnelly

2007-05-26T23:42:00.000Z

My friend Mike went to the RHS Chelsea Flower Show and took these wonderful pictures and kindly shared them with me. I managed to catch the last episode of the BBC coverage this evening and some of the designs were just fantastic. I didn't realise that there was such a grand sell-off at the end too. Enjoy the pictures.

The RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2007 is officially underway!

2007-05-22T09:28:00.001Z

Tune in to BBC for copious amounts of coverage of outrageous gardens, garish gardens, and gardens bland and weird. Looks like 2007 is going to be a good year (like I know what 2006 and 2005 were like?) for the RHS Chelsea show. Joanna Lumley has already had a new variety of fushia named after her. It begs the question; What does the fushia have in store for Joanna? Or it would, if I were a Sun reporter.

http://www.rhs.org.uk/chelsea/2007/index.asp

All about Bonsai

2007-05-21T12:15:00.000Z

How to Prune Wisteria with Alan Titchmarsh

2007-05-20T11:29:00.000Z

Minimalist Style

2007-05-17T21:51:00.000Z

A great example of a sylish, Brighton front garden. What a great idea, to break the levels of the paving with a snaking line of box (Buxus), offsetting beautifully an ornamental olive tree, especially effective against the white facade of the apartment building. Whoever designed this garden, well done, its very nice indeed.

Euphorbia Euphoria

2007-05-17T16:56:00.000Z

Euphorbia characias subsp. Wulfenii 'John Tomlinson'

A popular Brighton plant, subtly architectural and rich in its lush green foliage and flowers. Euphorbia, commonly known as spurge, is a great plant and I've seen it quite a lot in front gardens too in Brighton. Pruning is easy, mainly taking out the dead and old stems right at the base of the plant. Be careful with it, however, as the milky sap in the stems is easily released on contact and this is highly irritant for skin and can cause quite a few problems. Always wear gloves and if you do have children, tell them to stay away from it as the sap is rather poisonous in general!

Angelica Archangelica

2007-05-16T16:37:00.000Z

A remarkable herb. Angelica grows up to 2 metres tall and is suitable for large gardens. Structurally this plant is fantastic. Cultivate in ordinary deep, moist loam, in a shady position, as the plant thrives best in a damp soil and loves to grow near running water. Although the natural habitat is in damp soil and in open quarters, yet it can withstand adverse environment wonderfully well, and even endure severe winter frost without harm. Seedlings will even successfully develop and flower under trees, whose shelter creates an area of summer dryness in the surface soil, but, of course, though such conditions may be allowable when Angelica is grown merely as an ornamental plant, it must be given the best treatment as regards suitable soil and situation when grown for its use commercially.

The Garden House

2007-05-16T16:28:00.000Z

This is a flyer for The Garden House, an exciting gardening venture that I recently discovered in Brighton. Click on this link to find out about great courses and visits which this company organise and at a decent price. During the summer they will be doing new day courses in propagation, a trip to Ventnor Botanic Gardens and Great Dixtor, as well as a series of visits to The Hidden Gardens of Brighton during May and June.

www.gardenhousebrighton.co.uk

City College's Horticulture Gurus

2007-05-16T16:11:00.000Z

This is Jim and Bridget, our lecturers and all round cool horticulture teachers at Stamner Park. In the pictures, Jim is showing us one of the many plant identifications we have to learn throughout the year. Bridget is taking us on a visual journey through the world of biennials. Both Jim and Bridget really bring their passion and enthusiasm for gardening to the students and make the lessons fun and enjoyable.

City College Brighton & Hove Hampton Court Entry

2007-05-16T02:01:00.000Z

This is City College Brighton & Hove's beautiful entry for the Hampton Court Flower Show in July. We are working hard on propagating the plants for the show for this spectacular tropical garden design. Beth Roberts and Julia Harding from the course were responsible for the design which will fill a plot of 6 x 4 metres at the show. In previous years the college has won silver gilt awards and this year we are going for gold with this exciting design. It's going to be hard work getting all the plants together but the students are all confident we can do it. If it looks anything like the picture then its going to be pretty amazing.

Wisteria Wow Factor

2007-05-16T01:26:00.000Z

What a perfect time it was to visit Kew Gardens recently. On visiting Kew for yonks, I was privileged enough to see this astonishing Japanese Wisteria, forming a canopy over a giant pergola.

Wisterias show off their highly scented racemes of flowers up to 30cm long. Flower colour changes according to variety but is normally a mixture of blue, purple or white. Flowers appear in late Spring or Summer and are followed by pendant bean-like green seed-pods.

The Japanese Wisteria pictured here at Kew can be dated back to 1820 when it was propagated from the first Wisteria cuttings imported into the UK in 1816. Originally housed inside, this Wisteria was moved and planted outside since 1860.

Ground Cover

2007-05-16T00:50:00.002Z

Pulmonaria longifolia 'Bertram Anderson'

Another snap from Wakehurst Place. As you can see, all the plants at Wakehurst are labelled, just as they are at Kew Gardens and all RHS sites. I could wander around these gardens all day long and soak up the names and varieties of the plants. When I walks out of these gardens, it feels strange to re-enter a world in which plants are not labelled!

I took this picture of the interesting variety of Pulmonaria. This plant likes damp and shade and makes a good ground cover with interesting foliage and flowers.

Fatsia Japonica

2007-05-16T00:23:00.000Z

This is my friend Martin from the course at Stanmer Park at City College Brighton & Hove. He's a great gardener too, of course. Look at the structural plant to his right. This is called Fatsia japonica, and you will notice this quite alot in gardens front and back in Brighton. It appreciates shade and damp and will grow in most soils. I love it myself for its architectural leaves jutting out in all directions. Stanmer Park is worth a visit. Some of the planting is amazing there and they have beautiful cherry trees (Prunus) which flower in Spring.

The Marvellous Magnolias of Wakehurst Place

2007-05-16T00:15:00.000Z

Photographs cannot do them justice. However, I took this picture of the Magnolia 'Wakehurst' at Wakehurst Place on our second college trip in March. Isn't it stunning? We had an early Spring this year, so we went just at the right time to see the collection of magnolias, which are all over the grounds and they are delightful. If I had a garden of my own, it would be one of the first trees I would plant.

Sheffield Park Gardens

2007-05-16T00:05:00.000Z

This is my friend Sharon on a college trip to Sheffield Park Gardens. As you can see, the weather was not good on this day, but Sheffield Park Gardens are stunning whatever the time of year or weather. And just to think it was all designed by one man, the excellently named Capability Brown. Well, he was certainly a capable garden designer that's for sure. In Autumn, the foliage of many of the trees turns a myriad shades of red, orange and yellow for a spectacular visual display. Sharon is my best friend on the course. Together, we laugh a lot. and share a surreal sense of humour. However, Sharon is a first class gardener and together we plan to raise more awareness of gardening in Brighton and make people happy by making their gardens wonderful.

An Introduction

2007-05-15T23:54:00.000Z

Welcome to The Brighton Gardener. My name is Laurence England and this is a picture of me pruning in the early weeks of my OCN and NVQ2 Garden Services Course at Stanmer Park. I am nearing the completion of the course and am currently setting up a business renovating and maintaining the small gardens of Brighton & Hove. This blog is dedicated to the world of horticulture and aims to raise awareness of gardening in Brighton & Hove. When people think of Brighton they tend not to think of amazing gardens. But its amazing what you can do with even a small space in a city like Brighton & Hove. I've learned a great deal on the course, but as any good gardener knows, the learning never stops. I hope this blog is a useful addition to Brighton's gardening scene and most of all, I hope you enjoy it!